Alas, poor Jacqueline. She has been plagued by a consumptive cough (although she claims it is just a common cold) and I fear she will expire in our humble garret in Paris (okay, okay, the fourth floor of the Hotel). Someone should write an opera about it. "La Blondeau." It'll be sort of like Moulin Rouge, without Ewan McGregor or Nicole Kidman, of course.
On that grim note, this morning we got up a little earlier and walked over to Notre-Dame to check out the Cryptes Archaelogique. These are the foundations of ancient Roman buildings under the square in front of the cathedral. Kind of interesting.
After that, we went on a long hike through the city, heading towards Les Catacombs. They are definitely outside the touristy section, although we did stop briefly at the gardens of the Palais de Luxembourg. We arrived at the Catacombs, where there was a sign indicating how many steps (87, I think) that you had to go, and that it was a 1.7 km walk undergound. So, down we go (yet another spiral staircase). At first, there are a few brightly lit rooms with a little photo gallery explaining the Catacombs, mostly in French, so we just glanced at them and went on to proceed to an ominous little stone doorway opening into the tunnels.
On the positive side, the tunnels were quite refreshingly cool. On the other hand, they were kind of dark and cramped, and really creepy at first. I couldn't straighten both arms, and I could easily touch the ceiling. A taller person might have some difficulty. For a while, we thought we were the only people there, and that was quite eerie, but then we did eventually catch up to other people.
So you spend quite a while winding your way through these dark narrow tunnels, and then you arrive at a doorway that basically says "The Empire of the Dead". When you step through the doorway, there are literally thousands and thousands of bones and skulls. I can't even begin to imagine how many (my book says "over a million"). Basically, in the 1800s, Paris decided to do an "urban renewal" project, and there were way too many cemeteries clogging up prime real estate. So they dug everyone up and stored them all in the underground Montrouge quarries. (So not kidding.)
So you're underground, in a dark gloomy little place, with millions of bones. Stacks and stacks of femurs, and skulls placed in between. When we first stepped in, I said to Jackie, "Are those skulls in a heart shape?" Yep. How weird is that. And then after you get over the initial heebie-jeebies, you just start wandering through. I stopped to take a picture, and because it's so dark and flash-photography is a no-no, you have to brace yourself to hold the camera steady because the shutter speed is slower when you're not using the flash. So I leaned back against a wall that went "creeeak", and I realized, oops, that wasn't a wall. Sorry guys!
There were some areas where the ceiling was really low, and water was dripping from the ceiling. And an annoying tour group that was "le-blah blah blah" and very hard to get past. When we finally got to the end and climbed back to the surface, Jackie had to stop and show her backpack to the security guard so that he could be sure that she hadn't stolen some bones.
Which, of course, started an interesting discussion as to how one could possibly get through customs with a skull or a femur in your luggage.
After that, we wandered through Montparnasse cemetery on our way back to tourist-central - this one a conventional above-ground one, with masoleums all packed in. Way too cramped to be pretty, but it was walled in, with lots of trees, so it was a nice walk.
Back on the regular streets again, we suddenly got hungry, so stopped for lunch (a Coke and a chocolate crepe - yummy!), and then it was raining again. Where the heck did that come from? It was a warm sunny day! Fortunately, we had brought the umbrella with us.
Long long way back to the Hôtel des Invalides, which includes the tomb of Napoleon, and a Musée de Armee (lots and lots of war stuff!). The tomb of Napoleon is so amazingly huge and monumental, there's no way the camera can do it justice. A huge huge dome, with painted ceilings above, and below, a gigantic tomb (Napoleon sure can't be taking up much space inside), with giant figures representing his victories all ringed around the tomb. Very spectacular.
Then into the Musée de l'Armee. We were most interested in the medieval armour and the Revolutionary and Napoleonic eras. I felt compelled to offer fashion critiques of the uniforms on display. Geek. Fop. Girly man. Oh, that one's nice. Ugh, what's with the hat?
Oh, and a horrible discovery! They stuffed Napoleon's horse! At first I thought it was a replica, but no, they stuffed it. And his dog! Did they grab everything he ever touched and stuff it and put it in a museum?!? (We didn't see Josephine, but I'm not convinced she isn't stuffed and standing in a corner somewhere.)
So, by that time, we're getting a little tired. We stop off at another Boulangerie, and I have some bread and Coke. Jacquie had "le cookie".
Then off to the Musée d'Orsay, which is one of Paris' newer museums. Lots of statues and paintings - including one by Burne-Jones. I was very pleased. I love Burne-Jones. Some sculptures by Rodin, and a neat display over a glass floor, which gave me the creeps to walk over.
Then we got booted out of the d'Orsay (cause it was closing time), so we went and sat down in the Tuileries gardens for a while, before starting to take the long hike home. We did briefly get sidetracked to check out the Palais Royal (you get sidetracked a lot in Paris), which was at one time the home of Cardinal Richelieu. The courtyard now holds some interesting modern art pieces and a children's playground - I suspect Richelieu would not approve.
Getting back on track, we walked back towards our hotel, with Jackie frequently checking the map to make sure we were on track. And then, as we were going down Rue Saint Denis, I saw a cluster of women just hanging out, wearing furs and very short skirts and very high heels. "Jackie, were those-?" "Looked like it." And we take about ten more steps, and I see another woman, with the shortest skirt in the world and a little bit of cellulite visible on her butt. And I suddenly realize the streets are full of men, and there are no women except tarts. "I think we should-" "Yep, turning around already."
Turns out we should have been on Boulevard Saint Denis, not Rue Saint Denis. Important detail.
Had supper at the Quick Hambuger Restaurant (don't you just love those exotic Parisian restaurants?) and then headed over to the Internet cafe. So that's that! I probably forgot something, but if it's important, I'll add it later!
:-)
On that grim note, this morning we got up a little earlier and walked over to Notre-Dame to check out the Cryptes Archaelogique. These are the foundations of ancient Roman buildings under the square in front of the cathedral. Kind of interesting.
After that, we went on a long hike through the city, heading towards Les Catacombs. They are definitely outside the touristy section, although we did stop briefly at the gardens of the Palais de Luxembourg. We arrived at the Catacombs, where there was a sign indicating how many steps (87, I think) that you had to go, and that it was a 1.7 km walk undergound. So, down we go (yet another spiral staircase). At first, there are a few brightly lit rooms with a little photo gallery explaining the Catacombs, mostly in French, so we just glanced at them and went on to proceed to an ominous little stone doorway opening into the tunnels.
On the positive side, the tunnels were quite refreshingly cool. On the other hand, they were kind of dark and cramped, and really creepy at first. I couldn't straighten both arms, and I could easily touch the ceiling. A taller person might have some difficulty. For a while, we thought we were the only people there, and that was quite eerie, but then we did eventually catch up to other people.
So you spend quite a while winding your way through these dark narrow tunnels, and then you arrive at a doorway that basically says "The Empire of the Dead". When you step through the doorway, there are literally thousands and thousands of bones and skulls. I can't even begin to imagine how many (my book says "over a million"). Basically, in the 1800s, Paris decided to do an "urban renewal" project, and there were way too many cemeteries clogging up prime real estate. So they dug everyone up and stored them all in the underground Montrouge quarries. (So not kidding.)
So you're underground, in a dark gloomy little place, with millions of bones. Stacks and stacks of femurs, and skulls placed in between. When we first stepped in, I said to Jackie, "Are those skulls in a heart shape?" Yep. How weird is that. And then after you get over the initial heebie-jeebies, you just start wandering through. I stopped to take a picture, and because it's so dark and flash-photography is a no-no, you have to brace yourself to hold the camera steady because the shutter speed is slower when you're not using the flash. So I leaned back against a wall that went "creeeak", and I realized, oops, that wasn't a wall. Sorry guys!
There were some areas where the ceiling was really low, and water was dripping from the ceiling. And an annoying tour group that was "le-blah blah blah" and very hard to get past. When we finally got to the end and climbed back to the surface, Jackie had to stop and show her backpack to the security guard so that he could be sure that she hadn't stolen some bones.
Which, of course, started an interesting discussion as to how one could possibly get through customs with a skull or a femur in your luggage.
After that, we wandered through Montparnasse cemetery on our way back to tourist-central - this one a conventional above-ground one, with masoleums all packed in. Way too cramped to be pretty, but it was walled in, with lots of trees, so it was a nice walk.
Back on the regular streets again, we suddenly got hungry, so stopped for lunch (a Coke and a chocolate crepe - yummy!), and then it was raining again. Where the heck did that come from? It was a warm sunny day! Fortunately, we had brought the umbrella with us.
Long long way back to the Hôtel des Invalides, which includes the tomb of Napoleon, and a Musée de Armee (lots and lots of war stuff!). The tomb of Napoleon is so amazingly huge and monumental, there's no way the camera can do it justice. A huge huge dome, with painted ceilings above, and below, a gigantic tomb (Napoleon sure can't be taking up much space inside), with giant figures representing his victories all ringed around the tomb. Very spectacular.
Then into the Musée de l'Armee. We were most interested in the medieval armour and the Revolutionary and Napoleonic eras. I felt compelled to offer fashion critiques of the uniforms on display. Geek. Fop. Girly man. Oh, that one's nice. Ugh, what's with the hat?
Oh, and a horrible discovery! They stuffed Napoleon's horse! At first I thought it was a replica, but no, they stuffed it. And his dog! Did they grab everything he ever touched and stuff it and put it in a museum?!? (We didn't see Josephine, but I'm not convinced she isn't stuffed and standing in a corner somewhere.)
So, by that time, we're getting a little tired. We stop off at another Boulangerie, and I have some bread and Coke. Jacquie had "le cookie".
Then off to the Musée d'Orsay, which is one of Paris' newer museums. Lots of statues and paintings - including one by Burne-Jones. I was very pleased. I love Burne-Jones. Some sculptures by Rodin, and a neat display over a glass floor, which gave me the creeps to walk over.
Then we got booted out of the d'Orsay (cause it was closing time), so we went and sat down in the Tuileries gardens for a while, before starting to take the long hike home. We did briefly get sidetracked to check out the Palais Royal (you get sidetracked a lot in Paris), which was at one time the home of Cardinal Richelieu. The courtyard now holds some interesting modern art pieces and a children's playground - I suspect Richelieu would not approve.
Getting back on track, we walked back towards our hotel, with Jackie frequently checking the map to make sure we were on track. And then, as we were going down Rue Saint Denis, I saw a cluster of women just hanging out, wearing furs and very short skirts and very high heels. "Jackie, were those-?" "Looked like it." And we take about ten more steps, and I see another woman, with the shortest skirt in the world and a little bit of cellulite visible on her butt. And I suddenly realize the streets are full of men, and there are no women except tarts. "I think we should-" "Yep, turning around already."
Turns out we should have been on Boulevard Saint Denis, not Rue Saint Denis. Important detail.
Had supper at the Quick Hambuger Restaurant (don't you just love those exotic Parisian restaurants?) and then headed over to the Internet cafe. So that's that! I probably forgot something, but if it's important, I'll add it later!
:-)
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