Jackie and I headed out to Versailles this morning. Some initial confusion about the trains (and which direction we were heading) set us behind about half-an-hour, and the trip to Versailles was about 45 minutes, so we arrived there just before noon.
After exiting the train station, we realized that all we had to do was follow the hordes of other people to find our way to Versailles. You can walk through the gates and into the courtyard, but then there is a confusing number of entrances labelled A, B, C, D, etc. and no clear indication of where you should go. We spent a little time wandering around before finding an information area - apparently, we were to head to D to purchase our tickets and book a tour.
Off we went! There was a handy little information desk where you discussed what kind of tickets you wanted (we decided on a day pass, and an English tour, which gave us access to everything, for 26€), and then you walk over to the cashier who takes your money and gives you the tickets. Of course, this wasn't quite the way it worked. People would go to the information desk, then go to the cashier desk and ask stupid questions that they should have asked earlier, and the whole process took way longer than it should have.
Eventually, with tickets in hand, we headed to the first tour, which was through the Grand Apartments and the Hall of Mirrors. At the time of the French Revolution, all of the furniture was stolen or sold, and the museum has not recovered many of these pieces, so most of the rooms are quite empty, or very sparsely furnished. The art, however, are the originals that were there at the time. Most of the rooms are white with intricate gold detailing on the panelling.
The Hall of Mirrors is partially closed for restoration - you still have access, but half the hallway is covered. The remainder is very impressive, especially considering how expensive and rare mirrors were at the time of Louis XIV. Of course, it was while wandering through Versailles that my camera started to warn me that it was running out of batteries. Ack! Not here! (Never fear! The ever-present gift shop at the end of each tour meant that I was able to buy new batteries.)
By the way, Stephen, the Hall of Mirrors is where the Treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919 (ending WWI).
Oh, and you should see the royal beds (and you will, when I show you my pictures). Wow! Room for four or five people to sleep in, I'd guess.
Our guided tour took us through the living quarters of Louis XV. It was quite interesting to get a little more of the historical details, and on the guided tours you get access to areas of the palace that you can't otherwise see. The theatre alone was worth the price of the tour - it is a spectacular area, and was used only about 20 times before the Revolution. During the Revolution, the palace and grounds were locked and no one was allowed within.
After that, we stopped at the Cafe Versailles, and had an expensive Tort Chocolat and a Coke.
The tour of Louis XIV's living chambers was included with the day pass, and you get a free audioguide. Just a little tape player that you can hold up to your ear to listen to the commentary. This was actually quite interesting as well. Louis XIV's bedroom is spectacular. Lavishly decorated with gold, and facing east (because he was the "Sun King") with his windows facing the sunrise. Downstairs were the apartments of the Dauphin and Dauphine (the eldest son and daughter-in-law of the King). These were much less ostentatious, and quite beautiful. While it had the white walls, the detailing was colourfully painted instead of gold-leaf.
We then went outside to visit the Gardens, which requires a separate ticket if you hadn't purchased the day pass. There are two large formal gardens, with shaped hedges, flowers and pine trees, and then of course, there are many fountains. Unfortunately for us, the fountains are only on during the weekends or special occasions, so none of them are running. If the fountains are on, though, you do have to pay an additional 6€ for admission even if you have purchased a day pass. So it was a little bit cheaper!
We walked through the gardens to the Grand Trianon, which was a sort of "country retreat", I think. There is a forest around Versailles where Louis liked to go hunting. Whereas Versailles is huge, the Grand Trianon was on a much smaller scale. Still quite lavishly decorated, but not quite so showy.
And the Petit Trianon is smaller still, and is probably quite humble by royal standards. It was built by Louis XV for his rendezvous with his mistresses. Louis XVI gave it to Marie-Antoinette, and it was her favourite residence.
We did not get out to the Queen's Hamlet, due to the fact that we'd arrived later than we would have liked, and we still wanted to walk through the Gardens. The formal gardens are nearest the palace - the rest is more of a walk in the woods. Fortunately, we had perfect weather today.
Oh, and I forgot to mention: we met our first unfriendly francophone. At least, I presume she was francophone. We asked if she would mind taking our picture. She stared at us as if we were the vilest pond scum ever to crawl out of the fountains of Versailles and walked on without saying anything. Jackie was surprised - she thought you were never allowed to refuse to take someone's picture.
Once we left, we caught the train back to Paris. Trains make me sleepy. This time, there was a rush hour crowd, and remembering Greg's words of warning, I had to stay awake to glare at everyone. Stay away from my souvenirs!
So there you have it - I've been to Versailles. Whee!
After exiting the train station, we realized that all we had to do was follow the hordes of other people to find our way to Versailles. You can walk through the gates and into the courtyard, but then there is a confusing number of entrances labelled A, B, C, D, etc. and no clear indication of where you should go. We spent a little time wandering around before finding an information area - apparently, we were to head to D to purchase our tickets and book a tour.
Off we went! There was a handy little information desk where you discussed what kind of tickets you wanted (we decided on a day pass, and an English tour, which gave us access to everything, for 26€), and then you walk over to the cashier who takes your money and gives you the tickets. Of course, this wasn't quite the way it worked. People would go to the information desk, then go to the cashier desk and ask stupid questions that they should have asked earlier, and the whole process took way longer than it should have.
Eventually, with tickets in hand, we headed to the first tour, which was through the Grand Apartments and the Hall of Mirrors. At the time of the French Revolution, all of the furniture was stolen or sold, and the museum has not recovered many of these pieces, so most of the rooms are quite empty, or very sparsely furnished. The art, however, are the originals that were there at the time. Most of the rooms are white with intricate gold detailing on the panelling.
The Hall of Mirrors is partially closed for restoration - you still have access, but half the hallway is covered. The remainder is very impressive, especially considering how expensive and rare mirrors were at the time of Louis XIV. Of course, it was while wandering through Versailles that my camera started to warn me that it was running out of batteries. Ack! Not here! (Never fear! The ever-present gift shop at the end of each tour meant that I was able to buy new batteries.)
By the way, Stephen, the Hall of Mirrors is where the Treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919 (ending WWI).
Oh, and you should see the royal beds (and you will, when I show you my pictures). Wow! Room for four or five people to sleep in, I'd guess.
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Our guided tour took us through the living quarters of Louis XV. It was quite interesting to get a little more of the historical details, and on the guided tours you get access to areas of the palace that you can't otherwise see. The theatre alone was worth the price of the tour - it is a spectacular area, and was used only about 20 times before the Revolution. During the Revolution, the palace and grounds were locked and no one was allowed within.
After that, we stopped at the Cafe Versailles, and had an expensive Tort Chocolat and a Coke.
The tour of Louis XIV's living chambers was included with the day pass, and you get a free audioguide. Just a little tape player that you can hold up to your ear to listen to the commentary. This was actually quite interesting as well. Louis XIV's bedroom is spectacular. Lavishly decorated with gold, and facing east (because he was the "Sun King") with his windows facing the sunrise. Downstairs were the apartments of the Dauphin and Dauphine (the eldest son and daughter-in-law of the King). These were much less ostentatious, and quite beautiful. While it had the white walls, the detailing was colourfully painted instead of gold-leaf.
We then went outside to visit the Gardens, which requires a separate ticket if you hadn't purchased the day pass. There are two large formal gardens, with shaped hedges, flowers and pine trees, and then of course, there are many fountains. Unfortunately for us, the fountains are only on during the weekends or special occasions, so none of them are running. If the fountains are on, though, you do have to pay an additional 6€ for admission even if you have purchased a day pass. So it was a little bit cheaper!
We walked through the gardens to the Grand Trianon, which was a sort of "country retreat", I think. There is a forest around Versailles where Louis liked to go hunting. Whereas Versailles is huge, the Grand Trianon was on a much smaller scale. Still quite lavishly decorated, but not quite so showy.
And the Petit Trianon is smaller still, and is probably quite humble by royal standards. It was built by Louis XV for his rendezvous with his mistresses. Louis XVI gave it to Marie-Antoinette, and it was her favourite residence.
We did not get out to the Queen's Hamlet, due to the fact that we'd arrived later than we would have liked, and we still wanted to walk through the Gardens. The formal gardens are nearest the palace - the rest is more of a walk in the woods. Fortunately, we had perfect weather today.
Oh, and I forgot to mention: we met our first unfriendly francophone. At least, I presume she was francophone. We asked if she would mind taking our picture. She stared at us as if we were the vilest pond scum ever to crawl out of the fountains of Versailles and walked on without saying anything. Jackie was surprised - she thought you were never allowed to refuse to take someone's picture.
Once we left, we caught the train back to Paris. Trains make me sleepy. This time, there was a rush hour crowd, and remembering Greg's words of warning, I had to stay awake to glare at everyone. Stay away from my souvenirs!
So there you have it - I've been to Versailles. Whee!
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